This review has been in the making for longer than Brat Pits beard. I got the first T3 early on. Most shops didn’t even know of them at the time. It had suicidal tendencies and promptly decided to take its life by rolling under my boot just one day after filling it. I had to forge a suicide note to avoid suspicion by the authorities. The second one was DOA. I buried it in the yard fearing two T3 deaths might have ringed a bell with some of the beautiful people in uniform. Finally, the 3rd one arrived just after Xmas and has been through rigorous testing.
This has been the hardest vaping products I’ve had to review in some time. In technical aspects; the Kanger T3 uses an eGo connection with threading only on the outer skirt. I use a 510 to 510 extension to test similar cartos, but with the T3 they didn’t work. I had to find a 510 – eGo adapter which had central post issues leaving me just two devices in my vape box that would fire it. A standard eGo battery and a spinner battery. Neither of which fit well into my review standards. It took a bit of MacGyvering to get it to work on my VV and VW devices for proper testing.
The Proper Intro
Clearomizers seem to have completely overtaken the carto market despite my awful experiences with them. The first CE4s didn’t work for me. The long wicked CE4s wouldn’t wick fast enough. Finally, the dual coil/4 wick ones worked but lasted only about as long as a teenager in an orgy. I love the idea behind them, and they would be fantastically convenient for my daily commute, so I keep trying and trying. This relatively new installment by Kanger seems promising. It’s a bottom coil cartomizer so the wicking is no longer fighting gravity, which should make a vast improvement for chain vaping.
It got the looks that only a mother can love. The tube is merely a round piece of plastic, and the non-removable drip tip is not very attractive. The knurling kind of works for the look, but makes it wider than an eGo battery. Alarming that it won’t fit well on the battery it was designed for. The MT3 improves the look a little bit by adding a metallic sleeve, but the lines and function remain completely unchanged with the exception of a small curve at the top.
The filling is awkward but doesn’t need a needle or anything similar. You just remove the bottom section and drip on the side of the tube. The inverted volumetric markings help quite a bit, but frankly, I don’t see why a simple ‘full’ mark wasn’t enough.
Leaking or juice in the mouth has not been an issue at all, nothing, nada what-so-ever. If you don’t overfill or drip down the central air tube then it’s all good. Just think of all the money you can save on auto diapers!
Now, more importantly, wicking. It wasn’t incredibly fantastic.The top silicon ring was pushing on the wicks restricting the juice flow. With a nifty little trick from ECF it was easily fixed, just turn the silicon upside down and all done. It kept up with 50/50 just fine.
Besides having three air holes in the base, the draw is surprisingly tight, despite reports of an open draw. This is a matter of preference, and I just happen to prefer a faster draw.
Unfortunately, with darker juices, I cannot get them to last more than five days, with the price of replacement heads being comparable to those for a second atomizer, I expected more, much more. Lighter juices seem to help them last quite a bit longer, so far 12 days running a selection of teas through one.
More importantly, How does it vape?:
My vape preference is around 11watts, a bit over or under depending on the juice, but I never stray too far from it. With the 2.0ohm head at 4.7V (my 11W), it’s a mouthful of evil with sprinkles of hate, at the lower heat (around 4.0V – 8.0W) it vaped fantastically well. There’s plenty of vapor and a hard throat hit with let’s say a 7.5/10 flavor compared to my trusty 306. So far these are the finest clears I’ve used. The one problem that completely puzzles me is a foul plastic feeling that developed when the liquid was left in them for a few days without using. This even persisted after washing them out and running a full (ish) tank through them. Perhaps the liquid itself was attacking the polycarbonate tubing or the silica rings, or maybe the juice just went wrong. I only had three heads to play around with and this developed in only 1 of them, I’ll investigate a bit more with the other 2 in time. Don’t want to waste them just for testing.